The enveloping fog we woke up to, the fog that was supposed
to lift by noon never did, or if it did, it was so overcast that it didn’t much
matter. Undaunted (or, more accurately,
not overly daunted) we hoisted the anchor and ventured forth, albeit at a
prudent 3.2 knots at first. We had less
than three tenths of a mile of visibility; our lives were in the hands of our
instruments. Jane set the multifunction
display to chart plotter on the left and radar on the right so we knew where we
were-- exactly and we knew who and what else was out there as well. Blind in the real world, making way by on
one’s instrumentation is an odd sensation.
Still the crab pots to contend with, but the fog was
ironically helpful with that. “If you
can’t see ‘em, you can’t hit ‘em,” I reported to Jane. She is our captain and so is on the helm most
of the time. I am line handler,
watchman, deck hand, etc. I like this
arrangement; I don’t sit in one place for long well and this crew configuration
allows me to move around more. I’ve
taken to sitting watch on the port side of the coach roof, binoculars at the
ready. Jane has an eagle eye and can
usually see a buoy or crab pot with her naked eye before I see them with the
binocs. I know she’s got the starboard
side covered. I take the port side where
her view is obstructed by the rigging.
I like this world. I like listening to the chatter on the VHF. I like seeing the vessel symbols on the AIS, knowing their names, sizes, drafts, positions, courses, speeds, destinations, ETAs. Here, we are somehow part of a realer world. A world in the constant motion of nature and commerce. In a fog that blots out sun and shore, where the occasional pelican dodges our bow, I find it is an effort to remember that this is remarkable, that our lives had been otherwise. The fog finally lifts and the sky is endless despite the clouds. This feels so normal, so just another dayish.
Once in the bay, we bumped our speed up to our now-usual 6+
knots. We were becoming more trustful of
our instruments and without being able to see anything or feel the sun it was
not a fun day; it was only 30+ miles closer to our destination, nothing notable
by car, but an accomplishment by boat.
We’ve made our first hundred miles, what with our excursion to St.
Michaels and we have crossed our first state line: we are on the Virginia side
of the Potomac. Joy will never again see
Maryland as long as we own her.
Tonight, Jane is concerned about our second effort at
anchoring. We are in a protected creek
off the Coan River called The Glebe. Our
draft is only three-and-a-half feet, but she is still timid of dropping the
hook in water less than 10 feet. We did,
after all, dock in four-and-a-half feet of water at Hartge’s. She vows to become braver as we go along. Her watch alarms every hour and she checks
our position to see if we’ve drifted. I watch
her walk around the boat and am in love with how much she is in her element
here. We’ve agreed to do an anchor watch
every two hours through the night.
Oddly, it is only recently that we’ve discussed the
beginning, those few days after the idea first occurred to us. She was still deeply involved in her career
as an educator and I had just switched seminaries. I didn’t think she would take the idea
seriously, not seriously enough to swap lives at a mere suggestion. It wasn’t, I told her, until a few days later,
when I woke up to find her at the computer researching yachts, that I knew she
was” in.”
“You’re up already.”
(She NEVER wakes up before I do.)
“I think we want a catamaran, “she stated, by way of a
morning greeting.
“That’s when I knew you were “in,” I tell her.
“Oh, I was in from the very beginning” she replies.
“I was afraid you’d come to your senses or something” I
confess.
She had.
Tomorrow, we head for Deltaville, where a French
press—polycarbonate, suitable for live aboard life-- sits in stock at West
Marine just waiting for us. That and a teakettle
(our 30 amps is no match for our electric kettle which consistently blows the
circuit) some half-and-half, a few triple A batteries and something in the way
of vegetables. We are hoping to make
Portsmouth and mile marker 0 of the ICW Sunday afternoon. Life is good.
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